After over thirty hours of driving, flying, and waiting in airport lines later, I finally arrived in Delhi for my three week booster series of embryonic stem cells at Nu Tech Mediworld.

I near melted when I saw Opi’s face in a sea of what seemed like a million Indians with identically scribbled on welcome signs. He was waiting at the airport for me, just like last time (Dr. Shroff sends him because he speaks English really well, and he has a personality you can’t help but to love). This time, since I have come solo, his familiar presence was the best welcome gift possible. Opi couldn’t believe how healthy I looked when he picked me up. He reminded me that when he first tried to talk to me after the plane ride last year, I was almost non-responsive. Of course, I have no recollection of that, probably for the better. Opi just kept repeating, through his perfectly white teeth, “I like this. I reaaaally like this.”

We scurried through carts full of luggage, polluted humid air that felt thick like swimming in warm murky water, and into the taxi. As if on Toad’s Wild Ride at Disneyland, the taxi veered and vroomed around, between and through just about every obstacle. There is nothing like the crazy driving in India; my taxi driver completely un-bothered by potholes full of monsoon water as deep as my knees.

By 10:30 p.m., I was unpacking in my room at Nu Tech Mediworld smiling at a vase full of pastel roses and a sweet welcome note left for me by a few other patients. A hot shower made the night complete and I hurried into bed, excited to rest without having to sit up like I did on the plane. But, alas, I couldn’t fall asleep. My internal time clock still refuses to cooperate and will most likely tick to the wrong time zone for several days.

My first morning brought nurses and other staff thrilled that I was back. Two of them immediately and happily screeched, “You got fattened.” Yes, indeed, I have gained weight since I was last here. It seems things has finally steadied just in time for this trip and the possible stem cell induced hunger I experienced last time. Throughout the day, I was met around hallway corners and in the physio room with the same reactions. The sisters (nurses) spun me around like a doll, examining my rounded and expanded figure. They puffed out their little cheeks to show me what my face now looks like, compared to before. When I made a sad pouty face, they assured me that “fattened” was a good thing. It’s amazing the way Indians can make even seemingly rude things sound sweet.

I got my first dose of embryonic stem cells this morning; a large infusion into the vein in my right arm. As the hour passed, the body aches I always experience with this type of infusion start to wash over me and increase with dramatic intensity. I barely made it through physio before the stimulation of my nervous and immune systems from the IV infusion had me cuddled up in bed, unable to do anything the rest of the day. I was sweating so much, it felt as if I was pouring water down my throat for hydration, just to have it come directly back out through my skin again. My muscles were cramping like I had just run a marathon (which clearly I have not). My body was tired; ready to give into this process and put the active Amy to rest for just a bit.

I feel totally at home (ok, maybe in terms of a second home) tonight as the stem cells do their thing. The A/C is keeping me cool, the honking horns have subsided for the wee hours of the night, and I almost swallowed my Indian dinner whole. Who knew one could miss chapatti so much?

Chavi, my adorable physical therapist, asked me today how my emotions were as we laughed recalling my many tear-fests last time. I promised her that what she saw my last visit was not the typical me. Tonight, I feel my emotions soften and tears are sitting on the brim on my lower lids. I hope this is a fluke to be blamed on a very tiring couple of days. Otherwise, I’ll start to believe my own joke about embryonic stem cells being instant cry serum.

I feel like a different person than the one I was when arrived here for my first trip, exactly six months ago today. I’m more present than before. Everything is brighter. The spirit of India feels as though it is hugging me tighter. Good things seem to be on their way. I often wonder how, since my life changing treatment, could it get any better? But something is telling me it really does.